I don’t know about you but I want to be comfortable when wearing my historical clothing. Right? And it all starts with what kind of fabric you have closest to your skin.
Whenever beginning a wardrobe for a new time period, or even if you are just starting to make historical costumes, having a comfy set of undergarments is significant for a good foundation. They protect the main garments from body oils as well as keep the skin cool or warm (depending on season).
Think of what you wear under your everyday modern clothes. The idea of bras and panties isn’t new. However, our modern fabrics of Lycra, spandex, and nylon are not what our Victorian ancestors used for their most intimate wear.
Yeah… I would rather have a soft fabric against the skin than some horrible man-made chemical crap. (sorry)
In the 19th Century women wore a chemise (still called a shift in the first decade or so) which is like a long nightdress. Underpants called drawers (NOT bloomers or pantalets – those are different garments) were created from two fabric tubes tied at the waist. They began this way in the 1820s but as the years passed they became much more comfortable.
Both chemise and drawers were made from cotton or linen textiles. Â Silk, although worn, is not as breathable for undergarments, i.e. it makes you hot. Wool, a versatile fabric, could be used but was not as common in later Victorian years.
General Tips to Remember:
- Go for cottons for ease in both buying and sewing
- Select soft fabrics
- Pre-wash before cutting – two or three times if needed
- Stick with 100% cotton or linen, or cotton/linen blends
- It’s real easy to buy fabric that’s too heavy; keep to lightweight materials
Fabric Suggestions for Undergarments:
Muslin – good starter fabric but be sure to feel the piece before buying. Muslin (known as calico in the UK) is produced rather quickly as a cheap textile. You’ll find the hand (feel) is different on bolts sitting right next to each other in the store. Select the lightest weight you can.
Broadcloth – watch out for poly/cotton blends! They are everywhere and do not deserve to be used for a precious chemise or drawers. One hundred percent cotton broadcloth can be heavy so make sure you can feel the material before purchasing. A wool broadcloth is too heavy – keep that for a petticoat.
Batiste – perfect for undergarments. It can have a slight sheen to it but is thin and opaque – a good choice.
Voile – very sheer cotton that will work well for late Victorian and Edwardian chemise & drawers. Early 19th C. chemises should be made with thicker fabrics. Voile is simply too sheer.
Lawn fabrics are beautiful. Unfortunately for us they are mainly sold as prints today. However, I’ve seen solid colors at a couple online vendors. Lawn is a soft cotton between a voile and batiste that has a stiffer drape like a shirting but sheer. Although mainly used for dresses, the stiff hand shouldn’t be too detrimental to undergarments if you want to use it.
Shirtings – although cotton and can be used for undergarments, shirting fabrics work best for dresses and petticoats. Look for something else if you can.
Kona cottons and other quilting cotton solid basics – although 100% cotton, these textiles are rather heavy and don’t drape well for chemises. But quilting cottons will work for drawers.
Cotton or wool flannel is wonderful for drawers for cold weather if you need something heavy. I wouldn’t recommend flannel for a chemise as it’s just too heavy and with all the other dress layers is not necessary for the chemise. Be cautious though: wool drawers around the legs may be irritating.
Linen – I have fallen in love with my linen undergarments! It’s simply beautiful to wear, breathes well, and is opaque. Stick with a lightweight linen between 3 and 5 ounces.
Fabrics to avoid for undergarment use as they just don’t wear well:
Poplin, organdy, sateen, polished cottons, chintz, dotted Swiss, all-over eyelet (although can be used for trim).
For colors, stick to white and off-white for historical accuracy. Undergarments were washed frequently and colors were costly and faded quickly.
Or be wild and make up unmentionables in black, red, striped or any color you want! 🙂
Now that you know which fabrics to look for when making a new set of undergarments, take a look at these vendors to purchase. And after you have fabric in hand, these patterns will get you off and running.
What has been your favorite fabric to make undergarments out of?Â
I have yet to find a linen that doesn’t irritate my skin so I’ve been sticking with cotton next to the skin.
On a side note I’ll purposely select the most obnoxious cotton print I can find. Then friends get together after hours and have an ugly undies contest. You wouldn’t believe some of the ugly fabric out there.
I’ve just started my first historically accurate undies in a soft white cotton gauze, and I love them already – the gauze is so soft and lovely I can’t wait to wear them! But I’ve also fallen in love with some very reasonably priced silk chiffon at the amazing fabric store around the corner from my place, with the idea of making some super-sheer undies in provocative colours for when I’m feeling scandalous… The chiffon is so very lightweight, blissfully soft, and floats like a cloud. I can imagine it as the sort of thing the great courtesans would have worn when entertaining. (Also, I am a silk addict.)
Has anyone tried silk chiffon as undergarment material? Was it breathable and comfy, or did you sweat buckets? I’d hate to shell out for the bright cerise chiffon only to find it a sweaty mess once I take off my gown, since I intend them to be a sort of Victorian Victoria’s Secret type garment – underwear meant to be seen!
Any ideas or advice would be most welcome!
I have a China silk (habotai) slip for 1920s dresses and it’s lovely. I wouldn’t, however, wear it (or any silk) under my corset as a chemise as silk can be hot. Makes nice petticoats though!
Mmmm…. Habotai… My favourite weave to paint and embroider on. 😀
I’ve always assumed that the buckets I sweat when I wear kimono and other Japanese historical clothing had more to do with the number of layers of heavy, heavy silk that proper wear requires. A heavy triple layered obi wrapped at least twice around the ribcage can indeed get warm!
Though, now I’m considering the fact that I live in Toronto, it is currently -27 C, and warmer underthings might be a decent idea for nights like this… Oh, the rationalisation that can go on over a fabric that I’m in love with…
Hello! Totally new here, and I know that I’m round about a month behind, but I just wanted to chime in – I am with the high recommendors of Cotton Lawn. It is a little tricky to find sometimes (in solids, as opposed to prints), and it can also be a little pricey (not outrageous, though – I can find it pretty regularly for a little under $9 a yard), but when you find it, buy as much of it as you can! I tend to buy it in 20 yard lengths whenever I have the extra pennies, and find some at the same time. It is seriously the most wondrous fabric in existence, IMO. Soft, surprisingly easy to work with (it was so thin, when I bought it the first time, I was afraid that I’d never be able to cut or sew it!), and super light weight! I’m not an expert in sewing, or in regards to fabric, but I do sew a bit, and sewing with cotton lawn is one of those things that will make you incredibly happy!!! I put on my bustle, and slide the cotton lawn petticoats over it and OH MY GOODNESS they just hang beautifully and swish just like a pretty pretty petticoat should do (well, in my silly romantical mind, anyhow). I also don’t know much about the drape of things – I tend to manhandle things into the shape and fall that I want, and if they don’t work for me, I yell at them. My first attempt at a four-gore underskirt with a pouf on the bee-hind was out of a silk dupioni, and it was so limp (part of that was because I hadn’t discovered the joy of flatlining my skirts, which I know do constantly out of sheer principle), but then I put it on over my cotton lawn petticoats and HOORAY! It was beautiful!
Cotton Lawn is the best fabric ever!
I am looking at making a chemise for Regency. I am new to costuming but have been sewing for years. After reading through this blog (rich with information!!!) I have it narrowed down to two fabrics.
My budget is tight so I’d like some advice before purchasing fabric. What would be nicer or more historic a 3.5 ounce linen from Fabric-store.com or a Daphne (is that the same as a batiste?) from Joann’s Fabrics? I can get the Daphne much cheaper (about half the cost and until I get to the store I am not sure if it is 100% cotton) but I will only be able to make one chemise for a while.
Thank you for any opinions!
Carol
Not sure what Daphne is. If it’s 100% cotton you’re probably ok with it. If it has poly I would say ditch that and go with plain muslin. Ideally you want the linen for Regency. But budgets will lead where they may.
I went today. Daphne I was told by a costume designer from a local theater is the same as Batiste –looks like a very thin and sheer broadcloth …. but sadly it is mostly Poly. So I won’t get it – I read poly is hot for undergarments. Joann’s did have a linen/ cotton blend fabric that looked ok.
I ordered samples of the linens online. I think I’ll try comparing those to the linen cotton blend. Unless you think I’d be better off using the 100% linen. Because I don’t have the budget to buy it twice I really do appreciate your advice! I think if I hadn’t read your articles I would have bought a cheap muslin that I would not have been happy with. Thank you for such and informative blog!
So much info….not sure my brain can assimilate it all 😛
Looking forward to the undergarments class & making some truly wearable unmentionables, not to mention fully starting my decent historical wardrobe.
So it means that I’ll go with the muslin first, haven’t made some before but willing to sew ever since, thanks for sharing your undergarment fabric suggestions, indeed it’s a big help, can’t wait to start my 1st project for this year.
Good luck!
I love muslin, it’s very versatile, different weight, easy to dye, soft and light and very affordable. With so many pros how can one go wrong!!
Funny, I was finishing up my first combo undies and starting on a trained petticoat when I saw this article. Perfect timing! I do plan on making lighter weight dresses (after I bought cotton voile in three different colors…) so thank you for the suggestions for lighter weight fabrics.
This was a very timely reminder as I need new chemises and I was so full of making new dresses that I forgot this most important accessory to my outfits.
Val
I’ve used polycotton before (I know shock horror) but I found it cheap easy to sew and easy to wash.
I was wondering what we call muslin fabric in the UK what do you call it in the US?
I think Guaze?
Terminology[edit]
In the UK, Australia and New Zealand:
Calico—simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton.
Muslin—a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric.
Muslin gauze—muslin.
Gauze—extremely soft and fine cotton fabric with a very open plain weave.
Cheesecloth—gauze.
In the US:
Calico—cotton fabric with a small, all-over floral print [11]
Muslin—simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton and/or a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric (sometimes called muslin gauze).
Muslin gauze—the very lightest, most open weave of muslin.
Gauze—any very light fabric, generally with a plain weave
Cheesecloth—extremely soft and fine cotton fabric with a very open plain weave.
Printed calico was imported into the United States from Lancashire in the 1780s, and here a linguistic separation occurred, while Europe maintained the word calico for the fabric, in the States it was used to refer to the printed design.[9]
These colorful, small-patterned printed fabrics gave rise to the use of the word calico to describe a cat coat color: “calico cat”. The patterned fabric also gave its name to two species of North American crabs; see the calico crab. [9]
source: Wikipedia –Calico (textile)
I bought some lovely soft Muslin for a chemise but when I prewashed it the fabric went a very strange texture and no amount of steam ironing would sort it out (the source stated it was 100% cotton too). It was so springy and soft that I couldn’t work with it. I persisted through cutting but when I tried to match up the seams it was all over the place. I simply cannot use it. I guess it is too fine or maybe too loose a weave perhaps. Either way it has been wasted which is a shame because it was so beautifully soft.
I feel your pain! It’s such a travesty when we buy beautiful fabric that doesn’t turn out as we expect. My guess is that there was some synthetic fibers in it which caused it to behave that way. Pure cotton would have pressed out. So sorry!
I sew first, leaving room for shrinkage then wash after. It has always worked out well for me that way 😌.
I was a bit surprised to see cotton sateen on the “NoNo” list. I’ve made a Regency chemise out of it, and it is soft as a cloud. Will have to see how it wears. Hmmmm.
I have three vintage petticoats, and one made by me, of lightweight cotton. They breathe well, although lots of layers can get heavy.
I have two short Edwardian petticoats made of lightweight flannel – or at least they’re lightweight now. Just enough to keep me warm and they weight next to nothing.
Thanks to mega-holiday sales, I’ve just purchased some linen lawn, cotton lawn and a lightweight cotton/linen blend. They have a wonderful hand and can’t wait to use them. One of them will be turned into a pair of Edwardian drawers of the French, full-and-ruffled leg variety. That will definitely be fun.
Well, I put sateen on the list as it’s a bit heavy for undergarments. For cold weather it would work. But the thickness could make really deep marks on the skin under the corset. Personally I save sateen for dress parts and use it for underlinings too as it’s a beautiful, easy to work with cotton.